A punch in the face, followed by smooth and feminine, and then a trail of an aphrodisiac sounds like the making for a good night for any woman. Black XS for her by Paco Rabanna is a stunning scent.

If Armani Privé Ambre Soie could be envisioned as richer, sharper, deeper, with the warmth of amber underscored by darkly resinous woods, Paco Rabanne Black XS might be the fragrance that such contemplation would paint.

Another synthetic concoction from a producer of normally fabulous perfumes. Whatever created the salted vanilla note makes me swiftly queasy and needing air. One spray was enough to discourage a second.

Muy bien

Paco Rabanne has launched the Black XS (for women) in 2007 – two years after the launch of the men version Black XS for men (2005). The feminine fragrance has been created by the perfumers Emilie Coppermann and Mark Buxton. The advertising slogan says ‘modern and rebellious princesses'.

One of the things that became clear to me as I worked on the recent 100 Fragrances Every Perfumista Should Try article was just how many perfume brands are entirely off my radar.

Sadly, I don't like Black XS as much as I had anticipated. Judging by the notes and countless good reviews, I was certain this would make an exquisite addition to my collection. I expected something dark, spicy, and sweet. Instead, I got a dark, spicy, and old lady.

My halloween event was geared with fashionable items and upscale accessories. I got excited to contemplate a Lady Gaga look. I was rooting for a hip, rock, subtle ensemble and while shopping for my fashion statement, I wanted a cologne to also match this.